How do I get my deck, pergola and fence ready before the winter rains?

Why fall is the right window

North County gets most of its rain between roughly November and March, and when it comes, wood stays wet for days. The marine layer that returns in late winter keeps shaded boards from drying between storms. Whatever is holding water against the wood in October will be holding it there for five months.

October and early November are also the easiest time to apply finish. The wood is as dry as it gets all year, the days are warm but not hot, and a coat put down now has weeks to cure before it has to shed its first storm. Wait until the rains start and you may not get three dry days in a row until spring.

Clear the gaps and the low spots

Leaves, pine needles and jacaranda litter pack into the gaps between deck boards and sit on top of the joists. That debris acts like a sponge against the wood and is the most common reason a deck rots from the top down. Run a putty knife or a thin pry bar through every gap, then sweep or blow the deck clean.

Do the same on top of pergola beams and rafters, where leaves collect against the house wall and in the corners. Check that gutters above the deck are clear and that downspouts discharge somewhere other than onto the boards or against a post.

• Clear every gap between deck boards, especially along the house.
• Blow leaves off the tops of beams, rafters and the rail cap.
• Pull soil, mulch and bark back from fence boards and posts so the bottom few inches can dry.
• Clear the drip line below the roof edge so splash does not sit on the deck.

Look at where water lands and where it goes

Get low and look at the deck the way rain will. Where does the roof edge drip? Where does the slope of the deck send water, and does it drain off or pool against the house? A deck that drains toward the ledger, or a post sitting in a low spot in the lawn, is a problem you can often fix with a downspout extension or a little grading before the ground is soaked.

Stair stringers and the bottom of posts are the places to probe with a screwdriver. Soft wood found in October gets scheduled for repair while the weather is dry. Soft wood found in February usually gets worse before anyone can work on it.

Coat what needs it now

Do the water test on the sunny boards, the rail cap, the stair treads and the tops of pergola members. Anything that soaks water up gets cleaned, dried for two days and given one thin coat of penetrating finish. Pay attention to board ends and cut ends, which absorb water fastest and benefit most from a second pass.

On fences, the top rail and the post tops take the worst of the weather. If they have gone gray, a coat now does more good than a coat anywhere else on the fence. A wood front door that faces the weather is worth a wash and a maintenance coat before the storms too.

The fence walk

Walk the full fence line and push on every post. Any that move at the base will move more once the ground is saturated and the Santa Ana winds arrive. Tighten or replace nails and screws that have backed out, reattach loose boards, and look at gate hinges and latches, which sag when wet wood swells.

Trim back shrubs and vines that sit against the fence. A hedge pressed against the boards keeps that face damp all winter and is where the mildew and the soft spots will be in spring.

Furniture, planters and covers

Lift planters onto feet so air moves under them, or move them off the deck for the season. Set furniture on protectors, and if you cover it, use breathable covers that leave the bottom open. A tarp cinched over wood furniture traps moisture and grows mildew. Teak can stay out all winter; just make sure it is not sitting in a puddle.

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